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M17 ANDES EXCURSION II This climbing expedition is put together for experienced climbers, who like to do a very challenging program in the Ecuadorian and Peruvian Andes. We start out first in Ecuador by getting well acclimatized by doing some hiking and trekking to lower peaks in the country. Afterwards we climb Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, Ecuador's highest peak at 6310m. The last two weeks are spent then in Peru in the Cordillera Blanca, climbing first Chopicalqui and then Huascaran, Peru's highest mountain. M18 : 31 days / 30 nights Day 1 Arrival in Quito and transfer to our B&B Parque Italia. Day 2 Today we put in an easy day so you can get used to the altitude. We drive first to Mitad del Mundo and visit the famous equator monument. Afterwards we continue on to the Pululahua crater, where we undertake an easy 3 hour acclimatization hike descending to the bottom of the caldera and climbing then out again. Day 3 We continue with our acclimatization process by driving to the Mojanda lakes north of Quito. Those lakes are located at 3500m and we hike around there for 5 hours. Later we have a quick visit to the Otavalo market and head back then to Quito. Day 4 In the morning we drive to Pichincha, where we undertake our first higher altitude hike. You start walking at an elevation of around 3700m and ascend to the refuge at 4600m. There after a short break we climb up to the crater rim and then to the peak at 4794m. We return then to our starting point and drive back to Quito with a stop at Panecillo, the prominent hill in the middle of the city to view the colonial center below. Day 5 Early in the morning we leave Quito and head south on the Pan American Highway towards the Ilinizas. After 2 hours we arrive at the parking area called La Virgen and then make our way up to the refuge at 4600m, where we arrive around noon. The afternoon is spent resting around the refuge. Day 6 In the morning we start our climb of Iliniza Norte, a peak over 5000m, which we reach after 2 hours. Another hour back to the refuge where we have a short rest and then back to the car. We drive then to Cotopaxi National Park and to the parking area at 4600m and walk then to the refuge at 4800m, where we get ready for the climb. Day 7 After an early midnight breakfast we begin our climb of Cotopaxi. After a 1-hour hike on gravel and rocks to the glacier, we put on our ice-climbing gear and get ready for a 5-hour hike on ice to the top. Reaching the peak at dawn, we admire the grand views it offers and head then back down to the refuge. After a short rest we pack up and move back to Quito, where we spend the next night. Day 8 We put in a rest day in Quito which also serves as an extra weather day. Day 9 We head to the refuge of Chimborazo, which is located at 5000m. The afternoon is spent around the hut and at 6 p.m. dinner is served and then everyone heads upstairs to sleep. Day 10 After an early breakfast we begin our climb of Chimborazo at around midnight. After a 1-hour hike on gravel and rocks to the glacier, we put on our ice-climbing gear and get ready for the climb on ice to the top. Reaching the peak at dawn, we admire the grand views it offers and head then back down to the refuge. After a short rest we pack up and drive to Guaranda, where we spend the next night. Day 11 Today we start our drive to Peru by descending the Andes and driving along the coast into the neighboring country. Our first stop is Mancora, a small beach resort on the Pacific, where we will spend two nights. Day 12 A well deserved rest day at the beach in Mancora. Day 13 Today we drive from Mancora to Huachaco, another beach resort near Trujillo. On the way there we stop at Chan Chan, a pre-Inca adobe city near Trujillo. Day 14 We leave Huachaco and drive farther south on the Pan-American Highway to Santa, from where we take the turn-off to Caraz moving up the narrow and spectacular Santa valley. This road with many turns and over 30 tunnels takes us up to the Huaylas valley and to Caraz, our starting point for our next climbs. Day 15 Free day in Caraz to get organized for the final stage of our tour. Day 16 Early in the morning we leave Caraz and drive up the valley of Llanganuco by way of Yungay. After paying the park entrance fee, we continue on till the reach the pass to Portachuelo. Halfway we get out and take the trail crossing the moraine. We put up our moraine camp, near some huge rocks, which are already located near the glacier. Day 17 We move into the glacier and move farther up and put up our high camp at 5600m. From here we have spectacular views to Huascaran, Huandoy and Chacraraju. Day 18 We climb to the summit by taking the steep southwest ridge. After staying for a short while on top we descend straight back down to moraine camp. Day 19 Extra day for Chopicalqui in case we need a second try. Day 20 We drive back to Caraz, where a well deserved hot shower awaits us. Day 21 We leave Caraz and drive south on the main highway to Mancos, where we take then the turn-off to Musho, reaching this small village after 2 hours. We unload our equipment and start the 3-hour hike to our first camp site located at 4400m. Day 22 Today we have a hard day at hand, moving through difficult terrain of glacial moraine with huge rocks in between to our next camp located at 5300m. The whole hike takes 7 hours. Day 23 In the morning we start our ascent to our last camp at 6000m, which is situated in the saddle which separates the southern from the northern summit. Locally this place is known as ¨La Garganta¨ or ¨The Throat¨. On this stretch some technical ice climbing is necessary as many seracs and crevasses are encountered here. Also this part is dangerous because of possible serac falls and the quicker we move the safer it is. Day 24 We start our climb to the summit of the southern peak (or northern peak if so desired or conditions warrant it). The climb takes 7 hours and tests our endurance. After a short while on top we return to the high camp reaching it after a 3 to 4 hour descent. Day 25 We hike all the way back to base camp, our first camp site at 4400m, where we spend our last night in tents. Day 26 Extra day if needed. Day 27 Drive to Caraz, where we spend the last night in the Cordillera Blanca. Day 28 We drive back to Ecuador by moving down the coast again and stay overnight at Huachaco again. On the way there we visit the pre-Inca site if the Pyramids of the Luna and Sol. Day 29 A long day drive from Trujillo to Loja, Ecuador. Day 30 Today we drive the last day heading back from Loja to Quito, which we reach after 10 to 11 hours. Day 31 Transfer to airport in Quito.
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