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M11 ACONCAGUA is at 6960m the highest peak on the American continent and is located in Argentina near the Chilean border and close to the main highway, leading from Mendoza, Argentina to Santiago de Chile. There are different routes to climb this Rock Guardian (loose English translation of the Quechua word Aconcagua) from the very difficult Southern Wall to the technically easy Normal Route, which we will propose here. Although it is basically a hike up to the top, the high altitude and often bad weather with freezing temperatures and high winds can make ascensions demanding and sometimes even impossible. Proper acclimatization is a must and our program below takes that into account by preparing ourselves beforehand with an acclimatization hike and climb up Marmolejo, the world's most southernmost 6000m plus peak situated southeast of Santiago de Chile. M11 : 22 days / 21 nights Day 1 We start our expedition at the airport in Santiago de Chile, where we pick you up and we drive from there directly to Baņos Morales, our starting point of our acclimatization hike to Marmolejo volcano. To get there we have to pass first the capital and then move up the Maipo river valley to our first campsite, which is located at the entrance to El Morado National Park. Day 2 Today we take it easy and explore a little bit the national park on trails which lead to a lagoon at the foot of the peak. The whole outing takes some 3 to 4 hours of easy hiking. Day 3 On the third day we begin our expedition in earnest by leaving Baņos Morales and hiking up to the high valley of La Engorda at the foot of San Jose volcano. The hike takes the whole morning and the afternoon is spent on your own exploring this green valley of some 2400m altitude with its many blooming mountain flowers. Day 4 We continue on by moving up the valley of the Marmolejo creek to get to our next campsite at Confluenzia located at some 3200m at the junction of two brooks. The hike is always uphill in a narrow valley and takes some 4-5 hours. Day 5 Today we have a more difficult part in front of us by climbing up the pass to our next camp site at 4200m. First we hike to end of the valley having to cross the Marmolejo creek. Then we have to ascend the steep pass to reach the ridge. Having achieved that it is a short hike to our camp and we are awarded by great views to the Andean range to the south and north. The whole hike takes some 6-7 hours. Day 6 We start our hike along the ridge to get to our last campsite at 5000m, which lies at the foot of a glacier, which we have to cross tomorrow. Depending on the conditions we may have to move on snow and sometimes penitentes makes going really tough. Hike therefore can range from 3 - 5 hours. Day 7 Today we start out early getting ready to cross the glacier at the first sign of light. It takes about one hour to reach the other side and from there on it is a steep scramble up to the peak, which will take another 3-4 hours. After enjoying the great views on top of this extinct volcano we descend down to our camp again, pack up and move to the campsite at 4200m, where we spend the last night in tents. Day 8 From there we move back right to Baņos Morales, which takes some 7-8 hours. There thermal baths await us and we can relax in the warm waters after our long excursion. Day 9 In the morning we drive back to Santiago and from there straight on to Mendoza, Argentina our starting point for climbing Aconcagua. Day 10 Free day in Mendoza for you to explore this hot city, its great steaks and world known wines. Day 11 In the morning we have some more time of getting things done and later we have to pay our park entrance fee at the park authorities in their main office in Mendoza. After lunch we drive up 3 hours to Puente de Inca, a small village located at 2800m near the Chilean border. We spend the night there and get ready for the next day by delivering our equipment and provisions to our mule providers. Day 12 We start very early as today a very long hike awaits us. We trek straight from there to Plazas de Mulas at 4300m along the Upper Horcones River and the whole hike takes some 9 - 11 hours. There we put up our base camp for the next few days. Day 13 After yesterday's long hike we put in a rest day. You may on your own explore the surrounding area by visiting a hotel, which is located across the valley or a glacier coming down from the Mt. Cuerno peak. Day 14 After breakfast we start to prepare our final assault of Aconcagua by carrying part of our equipment and food provisions up to our second camp, located at Nido de Condores at 5300m. The hike up there is steep and demanding and will take 4-5 hours. After storing our things there, we return back to Plaza de Mulas. Day 15 Another free day to rest and to do get physically and psychologically ready for the climb to America's highest peak. Day 16 We move now the rest of our equipment and ourselves up to Nido de Condores, from where we try to climb the peak. The afternoon is spent on this high plateau, which offers beautiful views to the Andes range to the west and south. Weather permitting, spectacular sunsets can be observed from there. Day 17 At 5 a.m. we get up and after a quick breakfast we attempt our first ascent to the peak. The climb to the peak may take from 7 to 10 hours depending on your condition and the climate. After spending some time on the Roof of the Andes and admiring the great all-around views, we return to Nido de Condores, which should take between 3-4 hours. Time permitting we might pack up and move down to our base camp at Plaza de Mulas. Day 18 If we did not reach the top we put in a rest day at Nido de Condores. Day 19 We try again to reach the top. Day 20 We start our walk out of Aconcagua Provincial Park, leaving Plaza de Mulas and hiking straight to Horcones Ranger station, where we arrive after 9-10 hours. The last night we spend in Puente Inca. Day 21 We drive to Santiago where we end our long and hopefully sucessful expedition. Day 22 Transfer to the international airport of Santiago de Chile.
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